The engine on the bench, heads removed. The clear shape at the top is the water channels for the water pump, which has been removed.

To remove the crankshaft pulley undo the four bolts shown an gently tap the front pulley to remove it. Then undo the crankshaft bolt - this is bleeding tight and will require the flywheel to be held stationary. Once undone insert the bolt slightly and use a cloverleaf style puller with the center on the crankshaft bolt head and the bolts into the pulley bolts where you just removed the four from - these are M10.

The Haynes Manual is not that clear on this so to remove the oil pump you need to undo the torx bolts at the bottom of the picture and then the pump just pulls away reveling the drive shaft in the picture below

This is looking at the engine upside down on an engine stand with sump removed. The oil pump is at the flywheel end

Back to the timing end of the engine. With the crankshaft pulley and the sump removed you can undo and remove the timing cover to reveal the crank and camshaft sprockets behind and the tensioner.

The two indentations must be aligned to get the Camshaft timing correct. Even then it is possible to be a full rotation out when you re-insert the distributor. Well worth checking this if engine doesn't fire on re-assembly.

To slacken off the tensioner insert a piece of wire into the small hole on the left of the black plastic (just below and to left of allen headed bolt)and then push in the tensioner runner